Life in Florida - Time for a new car?

 With a new job in Fort Myers and a dependent family in Jacksonville, I've been driving my car 7 hours each way, taking the side roads.  (I'd get angry motorists on the Interstate; best and most gas efficient speed is 50mph.)  So, I'm using my car on long highway trips, and clearly my car is not a highway machine, especially since I don't have overdrive.  In the last ten miles of the most recent Christmas journey, I started hearing strange noises in third gear.  

The car has needed tuning for a while and a good lube job.  I've got it on stands and am finding all the nibs with the help of my owner's manual. 

I'm going to spend the next few days following the lubrication instructions in the owner's manual until a nearby repair shop opens for the new year.  (They're on vacation.)  Let's see if I can find the source of the noise as I lube and tune.  With God and Tech on my side, it's a loose body panel or something simple.

My Adventure Across the U.S.A. - Seattle to Sanibel (3400 miles)

Maybe I'm a little optimistic, five days for a 3400 mile trip from Seattle, WA to Sanibel Island, FL.  If I mentioned my plans to anyone, most people thought I was daft from long isolation and Covid-imprisonment.  Perhaps so, but I'd rather die on an adventure than suffer another minute with the Seattle paranoiacs.  There are definitely far easier ways to transit the country in aid of my family.  

Yet, I strongly believe that I'd miss an opportunity to see the greatness of our country and its good people if I were to choose the easy path.  Today, I've laid out a course for Pocatello, Idaho, 751 miles through mountains to the Harkness Hotel.  

Two hours out of Seattle, I decided to fill the tank more often through the mountains and stopped at Cle Elum, WA (+86 miles).  I'm probably burning more fuel.  

One of the few pleasures ... Planning a trip!

 Planning the Seattle-Sanibel Run has been one of the few pleasures during the plague.  Naturally, there are other things that kept me busy, but I actually enjoyed the anticipation and preparation of the trip. 

During winter of 2010, I crossed the U.S. from Chicago and reaching Los Angeles on New Year's Day of 2011, but that was nothing in comparison to the absolute diagonal from the craziest northwest corner to the warmest southeast corner.  I've got it broken up into five days:

DAY 01  Seattle (06:00) - Hermiston, OR - Nampa, ID - McCammon, ID (22:30)
DAY 02  McCammon, ID (08:00) - Rock Spring, WY - Cheyenne, WY - Walsenberg, CO (23:00)
DAY 03  Walsenberg (07:00) - Vega, TX - Wichita Falls, TX - Paris, TX (21:00)
DAY 04  Paris (08:00) - Arcadia, LA - Hattiesburg, MS - Destin, FL (21:00)
DAY 05  Destin (08:00) - Tennille, FL - Sarasota, FL - Sanibel Island, FL (18:30)

I admit some of the days are harsh.  My car is not a highway driver (No Overdrive), so I'm going to need frequent stops.  I've packed some caffeine and Lucky Strike cigarettes.  Though I don't smoke, I'll set aside the long-term health issues from smoking for the short-term gain of remaining mentally active on the road.  Besides, five days of occasional nicotine does not an addiction make.

No Garage...but I gotta get ready

 Circumstances changed.  The world has changed.  I need to get ready to leave Seattle, and it'll have to be ready to cross the country.  Brakes, electric, and tuning...  One way or another, we're going to be ready.

     

New Seattle Home with GARAGE!

I have returned to the United States and even found a garage in my new home city of Seattle!  I will resume my blog now.

I'm out of the country, and my Chrysler has gone into Pasadena hibernation.  When I've passed through this purgatory of dust, heat, and sand, I may return triumphant a new man or reduced to a cinder.  Won't that be exciting?

A fresh breeze blows gently into my life...

A long period of quiet waiting appears nearing its end.  Resuming my blog means the resumption of automobile care and study.  Very soon...

(52,429mi) Fun with a NEW TOY - The Sun Volts-Ampere Tester, Model C

In an effort to acquire temporally suitable equipment for my car, I have recently purchased (off eBay) a SUN Volt-Ampere Tester (VAT),  Model C.  I probably paid too much for it and still had to replace the lead wires.  Once replaced, the VAT worked  well, and I discovered just how well suited the tester was to my car.  The indicators were produced in 1948, a mere 3 years before.

Today, I test the circuit breaker on the generator-regulator.  At the same time I acquired the VAT, the instruction manual was also for sale at a nice low price.  (I discovered why the low price when I received a water-damaged book with black mold.  I scanned it and destroyed the original.)  The instructions for testing go like this:

Circuit Breaker

The following instruction may be used for testing the Auto-Lite three unit current and voltage regulator with the Sun Volts-Ampere Tester.

Be sure to operate the engine for at least fifteen minutes to normalize the regulator before any tests are made.
Note: In order to test the total output of the generator it is necessary to connect the terminal marked "F" to a good ground using the short jumper lead furnished with the Volts-Ampere Tester.

Stop the engine and disconnect the battery wire from the terminal marked "B."
Connect the negative black ammeter lead to the regulator terminal marked "B" or battery.

Connect the positive red ammeter lead to the battery wire removed from terminal "B" of the regulator.

Connect the negative black voltmeter lead to the generator terminal on the regulator marked "A."

Connect the red of the Voltmeter lead to the regulator base for a good ground.
Be sure the regulator is properly grounded through the dash and frame to the engine.

Start the engine running at idling speed and slowly increase the speed of the engine noting the voltage at which the circuit breaker points close.
On this regulator, the circuit breaker points should close between 6.4 and 6.6 volts. Note: Follow Auto-Lite specification for the regulator which you are testing.

Slowly decrease the speed of the engine and note the discharge current necessary to open the circuit breaker points.
The circuit breaker points should open between 4 and 6 amperes discharge.
If the circuit breaker does not open and close within these limits see Auto-Lite Specifications and procedure for making the necessary adjustments. 

I'm slow to learn things, so I try to understand why the instructions tell you to do certain things and what that means.  For instance, read the following:   "noting the voltage at which the circuit breaker points close."   I  had to go to my shop manual to find out that a circuit breaker point closing appears like.  "When the hand on the voltmeter kicks back slightly, it indicates points have closed. This should occur at 6.4 to 7.0 volts." p. 213, para.5.

Here are the results of the test:

The car was warmed up only 5 minutes.  The idle was a bit high.  However, it showed the above indications at the above settings.  The test setup was for the action of the circuit breaker.  Since the voltage did not go below 10.6 volts, I can assume that the test is not valid.  I believe that the grounding of the "F"removed the generator-regulator's ability to reduce the voltage to the appropriate range.  Therefore, next test, I will be sure that the car's idle is appropriate by first running it around the block for 15 minutes.  (When the car sits, I notice that it tends towards higher idling until well-warmed.)  Once the idle is normal, I will re-test the circuit breaker, first checking that the voltage is below 6.4 volts.  Otherwise, I will manually adjust the idle to a low setting and make the test.


In a future post, I will try to outline how the functionality of the generator-regulator produces these results.

(51714 mi) A Public Blogging...and I deserve it. Topic: Batteries

Modern batteries still need distilled water.  Oh yes, they do.  In the 1970's (or so the Internet tells me), auto battery manufacturers added calcium to the plates of the ordinary battery, reducing the outgassing which required the car owner to replenish the battery with distilled water.  Having seen only one, maybe two, occasions in which my father or family member added water to his battery, I never considered outgassing to be a problem.

However, in especially dry climates and especially warm engine compartments, the problem of outgassing becomes especially important.  In the cold, cold Midwest, we could never expect the heat to last very long in the summer, though the humidity could always be expected.  In the winter, the air may be dry but the problem of heat is not existent.  Removing myself from the arctic tundra and entering into eternal sunshine, I have learned more of what is necessary and not necessary.  For instance, the car heater is not necessary.  Refilling  the battery with distilled water is absolutely necessary, unless you like shorting out the battery and being stranded in the Ralph's parking lot.

Let's review:
(1) Check water levels in battery and replenish as necessary........YES
(2) Turn on the car heater in winter weather of Los Angeles........NO.

For those of you who have no experience in these matters, please reference the 1951 Chrysler Shop Manual, p.217, bottom of the page:

(51620 mi) Slow Oil Leak... a gasket perhaps?

For awhile, the Chrysler has been experiencing a slow leak in oil.  It always showed after a long run and always on the pavement.  Examining the engine, the source of the leak never seemed obvious.  Was it the oil pan plug? Was it the full flow oil filter?  From where was it issuing?

While developing the modeled interior of a functioning L-Head engine, it occurred to me that the source of the trouble may be the oil pump, more specifically the cover gasket.

In the end, I purchased a gasket online and replaced the old stiff rubber gasket with a relatively new and pliable one.  I checked the true flatness of the oil pump cover, and it was flat.  I proceeded to change the oil and filter just to cover all the bases.  With the adjustments to the wiring, I believe that we're ready for a test on the road.

The Windsor Traveler

In the Windsor DeLuxe Traveler, Chrysler designers have created a body style of remarkable utility.  It is, first of all, a beautiful six-passenger Sedan.  In a matter of seconds, the rear seat cushion and seat back can be folded flush with the floor to make it a cargo carrier with an exceptionally large storage space.

(51620 mi) Short Circuit Investigation...

Day One:

I disconnected all the devices off the 30 amp fuse which include the headlights, map light, and stop lights.  No change in the car's behavior. Ammeter flickers, and car won't start.

Day Two:

Nothing works.  No flicker in ammeter.  Nothing.  Battery tests fine.  Full charge. 

 Jumped the car to turn it over, and it behaved normally.  Mystery!

Tested main line entering interior.  No reaction.  No electricity apparently flowing through wire.  Unwrapped the wire from an interior loop, and it worked!  Was it an interior short in the wire?  Maybe in this instance when no power was reaching any part of the car.

Day Three:

It's possible that I mis-wired the system.  It looks as though the I ran the power through the fuse before the ammeter, but the fuse should never have been involved.  There is not absolute certainty.  Many wires are still exposed for continued examination.  Tomorrow's run to Disneyland will be a good test.

Day Four:

It is confirmed.  The power to the ignition was being run through the 30 amp circuit breaker, which was a mistake that resulted in weird behavior by the car.  Live and learn!

(51620) Massive SHORT Circuit!

While driving back from a Malibu beach at dusk, I heard a strange noise coming from behind the dashboard.  CLICK...buzzz...CLICK...buzzz...CLICK.  Over and over again.  I then also noticed that my lights went out and later discovered that the brake lights were gone too.  After many, many warnings from fellow motorists about my lightless condition at sunset, I finally reached home.  While the engine was idling properly, the rest of the electrical system was out.  Having no interest at the time, I left it for later.

Thankfully, my Service Manual has a rather thorough circuit diagram to help the service man repair the electrical system, and it looks something like this:

However, I thought that the diagram was rather hard to read, so I improved it.

If you note the red line leaving the STARTER RELAY, it leads to the ammeter, which then distributes the power to the rest of the system.  After removing that line, the short circuit was gone.  I am assuming that the short is hiding under the dashboard.  *SIGH*  After some careful photography and shoving my huge head into the space, I might be forced to disassemble the dashboard.  I hate disassembling the dashboard.  

Summer Supplanting the Chrysler Desire...

With the onset of summer, the beach has beckoned me each weekend, leaving the poor Chrysler to the garage.  While I could drive the car to the beach and other fun summer destinations, the expense, the parking, the traffic would make the effort less enjoyable.  When I'm not beach roving, I have been creating 3D models of various mystery parts.  These parts are usually the ones I would replace without examining them closely because they are factory sealed.  Well, I'm breaking those seals and discovering the inner workings.  My first victim was the Autolite Horn Relay - RAF-4001.

(49122 mi to present) Stupid, stinking electrical short...It MUST be gremlins...

I've been replacing all the electrical motors, solenoids, wiring, and gauges in a slow and expensive attempt to locate a short in the system.  The car will start fine for multiple starts, long drives, and short hops under any weather conditions.  Then, without apparent cause, the whole system will go down, no lights, no starting, nothing.  The solution is an easy disconnect from the battery, and usually the car starts again.  Occasionally, I have to do it twice, but what a bother it can be!

There are other symptoms.  Driving down the road, we'll get a concerned citizen flagging us down from their vehicle to inform us about the right rear brake light not functioning.  We have stopped and verified it.  As soon as I return to fix the problem, it is working again.  I've also noticed that the gas gauge goes wonky once in awhile too.  It appears to be showing the proper fuel level, but I may just be receiving the appearance of a full tank without it actually being full.

I'm running out of things to replace and will have to commit to an entire body long search, following every wire and testing every component.  Before I do that, however, I intend to have the starter rebuilt.  It can't hurt anything more than my pocket book, which already strains for many other reasons.   The upside to the car trouble is the fuel savings.  The car is not running, and the exorbitantly expensive fuel is not being consumed ($4.07/gallon).

The Windsor Newport

CHRYSLER INTRODUCED the Newport body style shortly after the war and it has since become a very popular body type among the old and young alike.  The CLEARBAC rear window, the roll-down side windows, and the wide windshield give open car vision and freedom with the safety of the Sedan.

The Windsor Convertible Coupe

As THE YOUNGSTERS would say . . .  "What a dream-boat," and we follow with "What a dream to drive"!  The Windsor DeLuxe Convertible Coupe . . . one of the smartest and most beautiful cars you ever laid your eyes on . . . with performance that will open your eyes and make you say "that's the car for me"!

(51305 mi) "Poor Adjustment" - The Squeak Revealed

Poor adjustment refers to the clearance of the pad from the brake drum; in the case of the C-51 Chrysler Windsor, it is 0.006 inches.  Six thousandths of an inch requires a particularly exacting tool to ensure that the heal and toe of the pads hit the brake drum equally.  What is the heal and the toe of the brake pad?

The only effective way to illustrate is offering a page out of the 1951 Chrysler Shop Manual, page 56. (see below).  The toe of the brake pad is closest to the wheel cylinder.  The method for using the MT-19H tool requires repetition.  First you adjust the toe then the heel and repeat.   You can spend some time going back and forth between adjusting the heal and toe until the pad appears to be reasonably even and round.

Once you have the whole thing adjusted, it may still need final adjustment on the car.  It becomes especially apparent when the brakes pull to one side or the other.  

I had another particular problem with the adjusting cam - the bolt and pin turned but the cam did not.  It was an interesting problem.

Someone had originally tack welded the cam to the pin, which worked fine until the weld broke.  I tried the same technique but used epoxy to secure the pin to the cam.  That worked like the tack weld.  My most recent attempt included a torch and a hammer.  There is no assurance that it'll work any better.  However, I plan to replace the drum brakes with disc brakes soon.  It is a large expense, but well worth the trouble if I plan to keep the car.  

After twenty years, I plan to keep the car until I can't see the road anymore.

(51305 mi) Adjusting the brakes OR How to take the SQUEAK out

One of the most identifying feature of an poorly maintained car is brake squeal, in my opinion.  It is a matter of utmost concern when I hear my car reach a stoplight with a strong announcement and wary pedestrians pass quickly to avoid the possibility of being a run-over victim.

Leaking brake fluid can be a factor in noisy brakes, but a poor brake adjustment can produce both noisy and a car pulling to one side.  As it happens, I had both leaking and poor adjustment.  Naturally, I turn to TECH and the Master Technicians Service Conference for an answer.

Tech provides the answer with his usual brevity and recommends the proper order to check.

I already checked the second one first because I had a leak and rubber troubles.  Everything was torqued properly and tight as can be,  leaving the first and the third recommendation.

The third recommendation called "poor alignment" actually refers to how the brake pad hits the drum.  The perfect alignment is perpendicular to the surface of the brake drum.  Unfortunately, the position of the guide spring and the cam pin in the "support assembly" can affect how the pad interacts with the drum.  We are ignoring other small problems like a drum which is out-of-round (solved by a lathe.)

If there is cam pin which is too long, it means some grinding and adjusting, otherwise you get an irritating brake shudder.  If the cam pin is too short, you can live with it because the pad will right itself, but the pad will wear unevenly and shorten its useful life.  If you want to fix a short pin, you have to pound the pin from the backside, bending the support assembly well enough to push the pin towards the outside.

The second recommendation, "Poor Adjustment" is matter of using the right tool and having patience in producing the best result. It's worth a whole new blog entry.

(51297 mi) Leaks and a spongy brake (or don't reuse old rubber, stupid)

Hydraulic action is a pretty simple way to transfer force from a source to a destination, if you don't have any leaks or bubbles.  I had both.

The leaks came first and were caused by two factors: old rubber and stupid me.  "Stupid me" re-used the old boots on the wheel cylinders after I re-conditioned them.  They really did look supple and new when I decide to reuse them.  Unfortunately, after a trip across the country from Chicago to Los Angeles , they degraded.  "Stupid me" also didn't double-check all the hydraulic linkages for tightness.

"Cups-Old cups should always be thrown away when you're overhauling a system."p. 19, Master Technicians Service Conference,"The ABC's of Hydraulic Brakes", Vol 1, No. 8, 1948.







Replacing the rubbers was not a problem.  The brake pad adjustments are another story.